Kyoto Winter Special 2008
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Don't be fooled by appearances, I was born and raised in Tokyo. I hope to become a great couturier one day. However first I must trot the globe and take in all the sights this world has to offer. So where better to start than in Japan?
 
     

Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine is in the quintessential Kyoto. Probably many of you have seen it in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha. Rows upon rows of Torii (sacred gates) winding up the hillside. From between each Torii, glimpses of lush forest. Here and there, piles of vermillion logs cleared away to make space for new gates. There are close to 10,000 of these Torii. Each represents a prayer, offerings made to the enshrined deities, and this tradition dates back to 711 A.D. The path leading through the rows of Torii provides a very pleasant hike, and there's even a lake halfway up Inariyama.

 

The famous warlord Hideyoshi Toyotomi's wife, Koudai-in (nicknamed Nene) founded Koudaiji Temple as a place of retirement after her husband's death. Nene's body rests here alongside a statue of Hideyoshi. What's amazing about this place is the amount of stuff brought in from other temples and castles. Elaborate wood carvings from Nene's own ox wagon, and decorations used on ships Hideyoshi sent to Korea, adorn the ceiling of the main building. Two tea houses, Kasa-tei and Shigure-tei, were brought from one of Hideyoshi's castles, and are perched side by side atop the hill like two lovers.

 

Taizoin is the spot if you want an authentic Zen experience. The resident monk, Reverend Daiko Matsuyama with his soothing voice, speaks fluent English. With the catch phrase "observing Zen culture", Taizoin offers a special one-day trip into its culture. Under Reverend Matsuyama's guidance, participants will stay overnight at the temple, giving plenty of time to experience Zazen meditation, tea ceremony, and Shodo calligraphy, and also to savour authentic Zen cuisine. Taizoin is especially renowned for its exquisite gardens. The dry landscape garden is said to represent the whole universe. If your five senses are attuned enough, you will be able to hear water flowing in the pebbles, and see great waves crashing in the form of giant boulders. Reverend Matsuyama, though, says he's yet to experience this revelation. He revealed that his greatest discovery in life was when he found that "generosity" is what this world needs the most.

 

Nijyo-jyo is the gateway to modern Japan. In 1868, the last Tokugawa shogun signed the castle over to the Meiji Emperor, officially ending the reign of the shogunate. It's a strange thought, but without Nijyo-jyo, we gaijin may not be here in this country today. Ninomaru Palace is surprisingly lavish, with gold paint all over the place in characteristic Tokugawa style. The view from Honmaru is pretty incredible too--gazing down at the castle grounds sweeps you to centuries back in time.

 

Notable for its vast wooden stage, supported by giant wooden pillars, Kiyomizu-dera is indeed quite a sight, and remains an indispensable destination for the Kyoto traveler. Although banned now, thank goodness, back in the day pilgrims used to jump off the 13 meter high stage. The belief was that if you survived, your wish would be granted. Apparently about 85 percent lived through the fall, thanks to all the trees beneath the platform. Make sure to check out the shrine Jishu Jinja, located right behind the temple, if you want to live happily ever after with the love of your life.

 

Nishiki Ichiba is by far the funniest little street I've ever been to! You can buy absolutely anything here. Hop from fish shop to dry foods store to dagashi-ya (traditional Japanese kids' sweet shops), and you have yourself a full course meal by just eating all the samples. Heaven-sent for penniless travelers. You can also get loads of Kyo-yasai (Kyoto vegetables) such as big round kamo-nasu eggplants and mizuna leaves. Take them home and cook yourself up a nice healthy meal. Bon appetit!

 

Ever stayed in a ryokan before? NISHIJINSO is perfect for newbies and connoisseurs alike. Enter low lighting, tasteful flower arangement, tatami mats and futon for blissful calmness to sooth one's nerves after a hectic day of sight seeing. Friendly and charming to the utmost, the couple who own the inn like nothing better than to see their visitors smile. And for all you shy gaijin out there, here's some good news: although there aren't baths in your room, there are two baths downstairs, which you get to have all to yourself. Hence, you're spared the agony of revealing your naked body to complete strangers. Dinner and breakfast are at an additional charge, but are deliciously delectable and definately worth ordering. However, if you're keen to try some neighborhood restaurants, the hostess is more than willing to show you the way around. Oh, and did I mention the cat? Jiji tends to spend the day roaming around outside and guarding his turf, but at nights you can find him sprawled on the hallway carpet.

 

So, if you haven't already noticed from reading this report, Kyoto is incredibly amazing. Forget Tokyo--Kyoto was the capital of Japan for over a millennium, and it offers so much Japanese culture that Tokyo forgot long ago. Preserving a perfect balance of the old and the new, you can wander into shady temple districts, then pass through an alleyway to suddenly find yourself surrounded by bars and clubs. By bus, by bike, by train, by foot... Just go. Go to Kyoto. Oh, but preferably not in the summer time, it's excruciatingly hot and humid.

 
Displayed information is as of September 5th, 2007.